Wellington: The Coffee Capital
Until this day I am nostalgically looking at there sketches I made in the coffee-capital of New Zealand (and arguably the whole world) Wellington.
I have spend about half a year living in this city, and a piece of me is still there.
It was 2020, a historical year for our world and my lucky gap year, that I took for travelling the beautiful country of the white cloud.
It was in this city, that I was enduring the global lockdown situation, which looking bad wasn't the worst place to be in at that time.
My passion for coffee, the desire to find a job as a barista in this famous industry, an attempt to escape the hostel lockdown, the nostalgia for a more vibrant cafe-life and the great amount of free time created this series of illustrations.
Initially simple sketches for the purpose of artistic practise and an addition to my travelling chronicles, this collection captured the variety and core of the legendary coffee-scene of Wellington. During my long stay I did not manage to try every coffee corner of this caffeine-induced city. But even more shocking is not the amount of cafes, but the fact that the coffee tastes delicious in almost every place.
My love for this project seems to be obvious, and therefore, let me share my feelings with you. Either you are another coffee-enthusiast, experience nostalgia from once travelling to New Zealand or are curious for a new worldly piece for your collection…
I hope you enjoy this little experience.
PS: Best indulged with a delicious hot beverage :)
Cafe Impressions
Buzz Cafe
The first Cafe that I drew, the experience that kickstarted this whole idea.
I was sitting in this cafe for a couple of hours. I was waiting for a job interview. The city was merely coming out of a lockdown, and one man had the crazy idea to open a fitness school, and he was looking for dancing instructors. I was waiting there, fully aware of how much time I had to kill. I had this new sketchbook and pencil set, that was gifted to me by my lockdown buddy, and naturally I started to draw. The interior was quite stylish, and my corner seat by the window was a comfy, semi-private place.
The best part is, that by the time I finished the owner of the cafe discovered me and came over to inspect the drawing, proudly explaining me how he had chosen the design, amused that somebody else took notice of it.
Espressoholic
I remember this was one of the first places a friend and I went to after the lockdown.
We were craving to go somewhere and simply enjoy a cup of coffee, something so simple yet so special at that time.
So we went to this cafe one night because it was very close to our hostel. And we (or at least I) were feeling fancy.
Meanwhile I was drawing I noted a little bite of a conversation between the two baristas, one of them saying: “Just keep going, we will have some complains.” This something that you’d easily hear in a cafe. Yet it makes you wonder: was one barista criticising the other? Or did some incident just happened without anyone noticing? Or maybe they were just dealing with a “problematic” customer.
There is so much going on behind the counter, that a mere customer will never know.
Midnight Espresso
Everybody who likes to stay up late or partied at night in Wellington has probably at some point been to this cafe: The Midnight Espresso.
Like the name suggests, this is mainly (yet not exclusively) a night cafe (open until 3am at the time I was in Wellington). Coming back from a local concert, struggling with insomnia, an attempt to escape the noisy hostel or meeting friends at a pub tour at night: this cafe has always been a safe spot to run to after the sun has set.
Living in Europe now I must say I miss this concept a lot.
This cafe has the most casual and all-welcoming vibe. The interior is beautifully chaotic, the staff quirky and the menu inclusive: lots of vegan options that actually taste great.
All in all. An extravagant and tasty comfort place.
The Hangar
When I was visiting this cafe with a friend, it impressed me right away. The interior is quite rustic, with lots of expensive-looking wood.
Drawing the counter I noticed how much information about coffee can be found on display, really underlining the professionalism and focus on coffee in this place.
The menu was not much different. My friend and I ordered a little “coffee tasting” right to our table. It contained several small portions of coffee, each with a little information card, diving deeper into its origins, flavour palette and preparation.
It was the favourite cafe of my hostel manager and judging by the amount of nervous couples on the day of my visit, also a suitable cafe for a coffee date.
The Lab
Usually my memories of the cafes so far have been “here I was with a friend”. Now this time it is different. The first time I was in this cafe was when I was meeting a Wellington legend, who was the co-leader of the “Free Food Store”. Just behind the corner of that cafe, every weekday evening, these guys were giving away free leftover food from cafes and restaurants from all across town. A group of volunteers would meet up to collect, sort and distribute food for anyone who cared to join the queue. Being a young backpacker, stuck and unemployed in a far away country during covid-19, this organisation literally guaranteed my survival, not just with free food but also keeping up my sanity by experiencing human kindness and a vibrant, quirky community every day.
That day in this cafe I signed up to be a volunteer and therefore connect heartwarming memories with it.
Raglan Roast 1
The Raglan Roast is a chain of cafes across New Zealand. Now often “chain” carries a negative connotation: low quality but high profit business. Well, this does not sound like Raglan. Raglan Roast still feels like your small down-town local coffee shop. More than that, each Raglan seemed to have a different personality, yet the same incredibly delicious coffee.
This Raglan specifically evokes the warmest memories. Its interior nominates for the most sociable cafe in the world. At the entry you receive your coffee and snack. Then you proceed into a cozy room, with very little private corners. The seats are mainly couches and armchairs facing each other, creating several groups sitting together, reminding of a casual living room atmosphere. Here I was meeting various people, always, no matter our history, having a wonderful time, resting, talking, drawing and even playing the guitar. If you ever dreamed of the get-together cafe vibe as in the TV-Show “friends” you should definitely try to gather some people in this place. Magic happens.
Raglan Roast 2
This Raglan Roast was closer to my hostel. Therefore it perfectly served for a to-go coffee on my way into town or back home. Or whenever I was too late again to leave the house. Lockdown has affected all of our schedule rather badly, for most of us our afternoons were our mornings. And in New Zealand cafes used to close very early in m eyes: at 5pm mainly, some at 4pm, and some even at 3pm.
This Raglan was smaller and quieter, even though located near a busy street. But thanks to its size it was cozy and peaceful enough to focus on some work, enjoy some time in solitude or have intimate conversations with loved ones or strangers.
Additionally a great spot for an after-meal coffee, since the food-court is right across the street.
Raglan Roast 3
The third Raglan Roast in Wellington. This cafe sits right by the harbour, which somewhat reflects in its rather “fresh” and “breezy” vibe. The location is perfect: the best walks with the most mesmerising views can be done around that place, for its close to the sea, a weekend farmers market, robust wooden bridges and the famous Te Papa museum.
Making it a must-stop for a cup of coffee with a little snack.
Le Samurai
I walked into this one on occasion, after a quick trip to the warehouse. It was very small and cozy. And not on the busiest street. Which made it seem even quieter and more special. The barista who was also the manager of the cafe, was in the best possible mood doing everything at once: taking the orders, doing coffee, chatting, … (which wasn’t unusual in small coffeeshops in New Zealand.)
It was here, waiting for my coffee that I finally understood the differences between coffee recipes. Since the concept of a “late” or “cappuccino” varies from the European way, he explained me how for them it is mainly a difference in the thickness of the froth on top of the coffee. Something to keep in mind when expecting a coffee there.
Havana Coffee Works
I remember having a coffee in this Wellington Cafe, felt like being a special guest. The Havana Coffee Works is a New Zealand roastery producing fancy-looking, delicious coffee, sold in New Zealand supermarkets and used by a bunch of cafes all across the country,
This location is both: a a rustic yet quirky looking cafe and a roastery. I remember the staff being extra enthusiastic (which isn’t unusual in New Zealand), and the place felt very active and vibrant because of the amount of things happening there. As the brand name suggests: Havana definitely works coffee! That isn’t just noticeable because of the sounds and the workers, but the consistent coffee smell in the whole building.
PS: Extra points for the cool graffiti on site.
Gotham Cafe
This place was just as cool as it sounds. The atmosphere, concept and interior reference Batmans hometown on point. The counter sits in front of skyscrapers, and the private boots invite villains fresh out of Arkham to discuss their shady affairs. The cafe is dark with pitch black decor, furniture and even darker walls and flooring. Though it is located right in Wellingtons centre, it is positioned in a corner that somehow keeps its quiet and mystery.
Unfortunately the barista burned my first coffee, but I am glad I gave it a second chance (with a better second coffee), giving me enough time to finish the sketch.
Victoria St. Cafe
Funnily, it took me a while to understand that the “St.” stands for “street”, and so the cafe is named after the street that it is located in.
After a busy day of different errands, I met here with my friend. To understand the vibe of this cafe one must simply think harder about its name: Victoria sounds elegant, sophisticated, a bit old-mannered but at the same time its timeless. That but a classic street corner cafe, adding it a bit of casual, but not too much, everything well balanced, with taste after this visit my friend left, I drew the cafe and left for a job interview in yet another cafe. That day I had a bit too much caffeine.
The Goldmine
I ended up in this cafe out of convenience. It was one of the closest ones from the hostel, so I was always putting it off for later. Ultimately my friend and I decided to visit it for a little work/art session.
The place had a very cozy and inviting atmosphere, with its warm colours and big windows.
The barista in the sketch wasn’t just an accident. When I started drawing, he brought us our coffee, and asked if I am planning to draw him too. I asked him if he would want that, and his excited smiling and blushing reaction was clear enough. As he proceeded working it seemed like he was fully aware of being in the spotlight now, “casually” posing like a professional. With that, I decided that he deserves to be in the centre of my depicted memory.
Coffee Supreme
Do you sometimes use coffeeshops as office space? If you do, then you’d likely appreciate this place. It does not just offer large shared working tables (equipped with power of course) but gives this clean, bright, minimalistic atmosphere, that is, if not even to everyones taste, a more than suitable look for good focus. Are you that type of person that works and learns more efficiently after you’ve cleaned your room, tidied up your space and organised your desk? If yes, then think of the feeling you get when finally sitting down and putting attention to your project. Thats the feeling you will likely feel there in the modern and stylish looking Coffee Supreme.
Pour & Twist
Since my coffee journey started in a barista school in Italy, I am usually more drawn to espresso beverages. At least I understand more about them. At least thats what I tell myself. But it doesn't mean I can’t enjoy brewed coffee. Quite the contrary.
This coffeeshop specialises in brewed coffee art and tea. The menu was one of the most intriguing ones I have ever seen. Drinks with matcha, coffee, fruits… cold and hot and whatsoever, in different colours and glasses. Everything new and everything sounds like you need it in your life.
The place itself is laid out in the most sociable way possible: as a bar, with no private tables. You can sit at the counter or the benches around it. And the windowsill.
But it feels and looks more like a laboratory with all the pipes running through the walls and ceiling.
Emporio Cafe
Once I felt like I visited all the cafes that ever fell into my sight, I needed to change my strategy.
This time I simply opened Google maps, my dearest travel companion, and map-traveled around the area. Eventually I found the Emporio Cafe. The pictures looked great, reviews were good, and the distance and opening hours suited me as well.
The opening hours of cafes in New Zealand were difficult for me to adapt to. Most places close between 3-5 pm. Five in the afternoon is early but somewhat acceptable. But I might have missed out on a couple of great cafes simply because they were closing at 3 pm, which ever fore the European standards is pretty early. But for those who love to have their coffee for breakfast it isn’t such a bummer.
However I visited this one and had a wonderful time. To my taste, it was one of the most stylish cafes, lots of black and bricks, and the coffee was not less satisfying.
Cafe Kyriani
This was maybe the most “simple” cafe I have been to in Wellington. If you wish to get away from the fancy and go to the less popular, singular cafes, you might find your solitude and quiet here. In a way, this cafe had a bit of a diner vibe, just with better coffee.
The most memorable about this visit for me was observing the staff. It was a quiet business hour, and a good time for conversation and gossip. Most cafe owners and managers (at least in Europe), don’t like seeing their employees just talk during work. Which is understandable to some degree. But as a customer I personally always believe that it adds positively to the atmosphere.Hearing the staff gossip, having them eat their lunch with the customers and enjoy their occasional coffee without hiding gives a familiar, human and peaceful touch to the coffeeshop experience.
Staple
This one is another kind of hidden gem. If not for unexpected personal circumstances, I would have never found this cafe. It is a very stylish, modern, minimalistic place at the entry of an office building.
The most beautiful thing about Wellington is, that the city is so diverse in its build and nature. You can enjoy your coffee by the sea, close to a sanctuary, on top of a mountain, suburban neighbourhoods or like here, at the bottom of a skyscraper.
PS: the coffee and croissant were amazing.
Sixes and Sevens
The shelves in this cafe were getting emptier by the time I finished this drawing. I made the mistake of coming shortly before the closing time, which in my defence was quite early. I hate coming by last minute, as I know about the amount of work it takes for the closing procedure, and how much of a burden those very last customers can be. But even so I did my sketch in 20-30 minutes (which was a big improvement for me at that point), and still managed to taste the coffee and my very first ginger slice. I have only encountered this special desert in New Zealand and fell in love, not only with the ginger slice but with the pastries in general.
While I was investigating New Zealands coffee culture I met a Belgian pastry chef, who was on his journey of traveling the world as a work and traveler to gain “diverse culinary experiences” to enhance this craft.
And what better place to do this, then in the hospitality paradise Wellington.
Quilin Tea House
Not in the mood for coffee? No problem. Though you can find an alternative beverage in any other cafe, you will hardly feel as superior sipping tea as you do here. As the name says, you will mainly spot a great variety of tea beverages here, not just infusions but also latte style. The flavours even reach into the somewhat exotic area (I had a black sesame latte here).
The place itself is surprisingly cozy, even though it is located in a busy street. The interior design is dark but elegant, any corner feels private and it is as calm and quiet as a teahouse should be.
A visit here for me was very inspiring, because this cafe is yet another example that hospitality is an art, no matter the product.
Nikau Cafe
This place calls out personal memories. For instance, once I applied for a job here and had a trial (which did not go as planned). And on another occasion I had a birthday coffee here with a friend, when I received a sketchbook as a birthday gift, which was the very start of the coffee sketch tour and and this book. And another time I forgot to pay my coffee here (I’m so sorry, really!), The reasons for that are another very New Zealand achievement in the hospitality industry: self-service.
This concept is not new and used all over the world. But I have never seen it as perfectly executed as in New Zealand. The customers are all familiar with the procedure and therefore not “too lazy” to eventually get up and order another coffee. The barista is not expected to leave the machine, they should solely focus on preparing the best coffee possible. If you want to order you come to the counter at any time, if you have to queue it is ok, if you need anything else like (free) water, sugar or a napkin you help yourself from a little station provided in each cafe. Beautiful.
However at Nikau cafe you have table service, which means you sit down, order, drink and then pay. I got too comfortable paying at the beginning of the meal, so I naturally finished my coffee and my drawing and happily left, without looking back. (Once again, totally by accident, I’m sorry. Please do not repeat kids.)
Cafe Neo
The soup kitchen in Cafe Neo was a rather unusual, but loving acquaintance I made with this place. I was invited to this event by some friends from the free food store I talked about earlier.
If you thought I was a fancy coffee taster roaming the city with money to spend and time to kill, I ought to disappoint you. I was very much in need for an occasional warm and nutritious meal. I was able to help here behind the counter and after an almost three course meal we spend the rest of the night playing boardgames and chatting with the usual gang.
Another day I visited this place during the day (the more cafe-vibe time) with some friends. Thats when I discovered the other quite common yet valuable treasure: bottomless coffee. Which means, you pay six dollars and we will refill your cup anytime you finish it. Surely a solution for those looking for caffeine overdose in their life.
Butlers Chocolate Cafe
Another non-coffee-focused cafe in our list.
Sure, coffee is great. But besides of coffee we shall never forget its caffeine free brothers and sisters: teas, infusions and hot chocolates. Some people don’t drink coffee, or specialty coffee, or coffee after midday and so forth. For instance I finally got to invite my caffeine-free friend for a drink, and it became a core free memory.
What took me back to the place multiple times is the hot chocolate with cookies (as was it Oreos…). Since it is a delicacy I’ve been enjoying since I was a child (it’s pretty much a family tradition now), this way the most comforting purchase I could make in town. And since it was the post-lockdown world, comfort was in high demand.
The chocolates they sell, including in beverages is of course exquisite (the cacao had real chocolate inside). The staff was uniquely styled and the interior unexpectedly chic, in white and golden tones.